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The capital of West Kalimantan, or Kalbar (short for "Kalimantan Barat"), PONTIANAK is a sprawling, grey industrial city of 400,000 lying right on the equator on the confluence of the Landak and Kapuas Kecil rivers. It is hot and noisy, and most travellers stay just long enough to stock up on supplies before heading up the Kapuas or straight on to Kuching. On the western side of Sungai Kapuas Kecil you'll find the Chinese quarter, the commercial heart of the city where most of the hotels, restaurants and travel agents are located. In the centre of this quarter, right on the water's edge, is the Kapuas Indah bemo terminal, which is connected to a second bemo terminal in Siantan, on the eastern side of the river, by a regular passenger ferry.